[正版图书]优雅的中餐Chow! 周德丽 民国外交家太太私家家宴食单菜谱 中英双语 传统中餐餐桌礼仪 中式美食菜肴制作方

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酒与歌 

  无酒不成宴。酒可助兴舒压，使长者重焕青春，年轻者愈发朝气。适度而饮，乃绝佳助兴之物。北方偏寒之地盛产高粱， 高粱酒之烈更甚于俄罗斯伏特加与英伦杜松子，饮者甚众。

  华东之绍兴酒稍温和，十分流行，可谓国酒。因其产地乃浙江之酒乡绍兴，故得名绍兴酒；其又名“花雕”，即以花雕饰之意，皆因盛酒之坛壁上常饰有花形之故。民间有俗，家中得女，双亲即制绍兴酒数坛，长置于阴凉避光之所。而酒之数量，全仗富贫之况。待女儿结秦晋之好，便可在大喜之日奉上数坛陈年佳酿以乐宾客。

  华南之地，气候更暖，惯饮之酒“料半”亦更温和。料半，即中度之意。然，“双蒸”“三蒸”更烈之，亦可得。又有“橙花”“青梅”等香酒，则为后添香料加工之酒。

  孔子对入口之物素讲究食精脍细，不食之物甚多，唯对酒或酒类无框定。其酒量虽无文献可考，盖同多数古时文人一样擅饮。

  吾之酒量，仅抵一杯绍兴酒，是以，难言深味酒之趣。此或非憾事，论起饮酒之道，吾怀疑西方友人比起东方民众亦不遑多让。

  清朝时期，曾有以官员姓名为佳酿冠名之俗。无独有偶，吾从上海酒商黄宇浩(音译)处得来的上好绍兴酒即取名LL.D.酒，名从中国一位著名律师，而此人亦是黄的最佳顾客。为得此佳酿，吾须携律师好友之便笺访问酒家，而对不懂如何品鉴此酒的顾客，店家一概谢绝出售。

  该律师现已在日内瓦，但吾丝毫不怀疑店家会继续为其供应他最爱之佳酿。

  在中国人看来，饮茶当处清幽之境，饮酒则应以歌助兴。此大抵为餐馆总是人声鼎沸之根源。

  名留青史之文人骚客，如李白、陶潜、白居易等，无不是擅饮之辈。杯中之物乃灵感之引，饮至酣处，诗兴奔涌，翰墨淋漓。时至今日，学生们依旧在朗朗背诵他们的众多佳作。

  以下诗歌乃“竹林七贤”之一亦是著名酒鬼的刘伶，为哄骗妻子以获贪杯之乐而作。某日，他告知妻，言戒酒心已定，奈何酣嗜时日已久，当在戒酒之前痛饮最后一回。妻子闻言，欢喜异常，为其遍访村镇寻酒。然，刘伶得酒后，便一口饮尽，遂吟出这首与中国酒量之法有关的诗歌：

      天生刘伶，以酒为名。

      一饮一斛，五斗解酲。

      妇人之言，慎不可听。

WINE AND SONG

  No dinner is complete without wine, whichbrings joy and drives away depression, and makes the old feel young and the youngstill more youthful. Taken in moderation, it is undoubtedly an excellentstimulant. In the far north where the climate is cold and kaoliang abundant,Kaoliang wine, which is somewhat stronger than Russian vodka or English gin, iscommonly drunk.

  In Central China a milder drink known asShaohsing wine—named after its producing centre in Chekiang—is very popular. Itis the wine of China. It has another name Hua Tiao (花雕) meaning flowerdecoration, because the jars in which the wine is kept usually bear a floraldecoration. When a girl is born, it is the common practice for the parents tomake several jars of Shaohsing wine, the quantity depending upon the size oftheir purse, and keep them in a cool and dark room, until their daughter ismarried, so that on her wedding day, they will have at least some good old winewith which to entertain their guests.

  In the South, where the climate is muchwarmer, a still milder drink known as Liao Pan (料半) meaning halfstrength, is commonly used. Stronger varieties , the double distilled (双蒸) andtriple distilled (三蒸) are, however, obtainable. The flavouring of the wine is usuallyadded afterwards, such as orange blossom (橙花) and green plum (青梅).

  Though Confucius was very particular inregard to food, his list of undesirable foodstuffs being a long one, he was notso with wine, as apparently all wines were acceptable to him. There are norecords as to his capacity, but he is believed to have been a good drinker likethe rest of those ancient scholars.

  My own capacity does not exceed one winecup of Sha- ohsing, so I am really not qualified to say much on the art ofdrinking. Perhaps it is well, for it is a subject in which I suspect ourWestern friends can give Eastern folk quite a few lessons.

  In days gone by, good wine was named afteran official in Chingchow. By a strange coincidence, the best Shaohsing wineobtainable at the wine merchant Wong Yu Ho in Shanghai is called LL. D. wine,after a famous Chinese lawyer who was one of his best customers. To secure someof this brand for my own use I have to go to the shop armed with a note from mylegal friend as I know full well that I would not get it otherwise; the shopwill not supply it to anyone who they think will not appreciate it.

  The lawyer is now in Geneva, but I do notdoubt that this shop continues to supply him with his favourite wine.

  According to our ideas tea should be drunkin quiet surroundings, while wine should be accompanied by song. This may bethe reason why restaurants are always noisy.

  The renowned poets of old were, as a rule,good drinkers. Among them I may mention Li Po ( 李白) , T’ao Tsin ( 陶潜), and PaChu I ( 白居易). Wine gave them inspiration, and, when they drank enough, they wrote beautiful verses,a great number of which are still recited by school boys and girls of today.

  Below is a song composed by a well-knowntippler of the past who used to cheat his wife to get liquor. One day he toldhis wife that he had made up his mind to give up drinking, but as he had hadthe habit for so long, it was only fair to allow him one final session beforequitting. His wife was overjoyed to hear this, and proceeded to search thewhole town for the necessary wine. When he got the wine, he immediately drankthe entire lot in one gulp, and then sang the following verse referring toChinese wine measures:

      Liu Ling, Liu Ling,         天生刘伶

      (that’s my name)

      From drinking comes my fame.        以酒为名

      A “hu” each bout I take,        一饮一斛

      Five “tou” I need to wake.        五斗解酲

      My wife she tries to plead,        妇人之言

      Her words are naught to heed.         慎不可听