美国时装样板设计与制作教程(上) (美国)海伦·约瑟夫-阿姆斯特朗 著 裘海索 译 专业科技 文轩网

   第一篇
1 工作室The Workroom
2 人体模型与测量Mode I Form and Measurements
3 绘制原型样板图Drafting the Basic Pattern Set

第二篇
4 省道的处理(原理#1)Dart ManipuIation(PrinciPIe#1)
5 省道的设计(开花省、褶裥、扩展褶、抽褶)Designing With Darts (Tuck-Darts．Pleats，Flares，and Gathers)
6 造型分割线StyIeIines
7 加放松量(原理#2)Added Fullness(Pr InciPle#2)
8 育克、冒肩、细缝裥和缝褶Yokes，FIanges,Pin Tucks，and Pleat Tucks
9 轮廓线(原理#3)Contouring(PrinciPIe#3)

第三篇
10 领子Collars
11 高领口BuiIt-Up Neckl ines
12 垂荡褶领Cowls
13 圆裙与瀑布状花边裙skirts／Circles and Cascades
14 袖子SIeeves
15 连肩袖、插肩袖、落肩袖、大袖窿袖Kimono，RagIan,Drop ShouIder．and Exaggerated Armho I es 337

第四篇
16 纽扣、纽孔与贴边Buttons，Buttonholes,and Facings
17 衩口与口袋PIackets and Pockets
索引 Index

1 工作室The Workroom
样板制作的工具PATTERNMAKING TOOLS
样板纸PATTERN PAPER
样板制作的术语PATTERNMAKING TERMS
样板与生产的术语PATTERN PRODUCT 1 0N TERMS
我们过去的状况THE WAY WE WERE
服装产品的制作APPAREL PRODUCT DEVELOPMEN
成本计算表COST SHEET
样板图表PATTERN CHART
设计明细表DESION SPECIFICATIONS SHEET
省道DART
圆顺曲线、校正线和等分线BLENDING，TRUEING．AND EQUALIZING
标注款式造型线STYLELINE GUIDES
织物术语FABRIC TERMS
样板经向丝缕线PATTERN GRAIN LlNE
平衡线术语BALANCE Ll NE TERMS
特殊情况SPECIAL lNFORIIATl0N

2 人体模型与测量Model Form and Measurements
谁是理想的标准体型WHO IS THE STANDARD IDEAL FIGURE
工业化样板的规格PATTERN I NDUSTRY STANDARDS
百货商店的规格DEPARTMENT STORE STANDARDS
标准化的其他尝试OTHER ATTEMPTS AT STANDARDIZATl0N
美国材料试验协会的标准ASTM STANDARDS
标记术语LANDMARK TERMS
术语缩写SYMBOL KEY
测量术语MEASURING THE FORM
测量围度CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENTS
水平线(HBL)HORIZONTAL BALANCE LINE(HBL)
测量宽度HOR I ZONTAL MEASUREMENTS
测量长度VERT I CAL MEASUREMENTS
测量吊带STRAP MEASUREMENTS
尺寸规格表STANDARD MEASUREMENT CHART

3 绘制原型样板图Drafting the BasiC Pattern Set
连衣裙原型样板THE BASIC DRESS FOUNDATl0N
上衣前片样板草图FRONT BOD I CE DRAFT
上衣后片样板草图BACK BOD I cE DRAFT
适体的上衣样板FITTlNG THE BODICE
合适的领口线FITTlNG THE NECKLINE
合体的袖窿FITTING THE ARMHOLE
裙子样板草图SKIRT DRAFT
核对样板PREPAR I NG PATTERNS FOR TEST FlT
袖子原型样板THE BASIC SLEEVE
袖山吃势量SLEEVE CAP EAS
袖子规格表SLEEVE MEASUREMENT CHAR
袖子样板草图SLEEVE DRAFT
调节袖子适合上衣袖窿ADJUST l NG SLEEVE TO ARMHOLE OF BODICE 53
无缝份工具样板SEAMLESS WORKING PATTERNS
完成样板COMPLET l NG THE PATTERN

4 省道的处理(原理#1)Dart Manipulation(Principle#1)
概述INTRODUCTl0N
工具样板WORKlNG PATTERNS
样板制作技术PATTERNMAKING TECHNIQUES
设计分析三个较重要的样板制作原理 DESIGN ANALYSIS AND THE THREE MAJOR PATTERNMAKING PRINClPLES
样板制作术语PATTERNMAK I NG TERMS
适合度测试TEST FIT
省道的处理DART MANlPULATl0N
单省道系列样板——剪切展开技术SINGLE-DART SERIES——SLASH-SPREAD TECHNIQUE
单省道系列样板——旋转移动技术
SlNGLE-DART SERIES——PIVOTAL-TRANSFER TECHN I OUE
肩胛省THE SHOULDER DART
后领口省THE BACK NECK DART
自评测试SELF-EVALUAT I ON TEST
双省道系列样板——剪切展开技术TWO-DART
SERIES——LASH-SPREAD TECHN I QUE 85
双省道系列——旋转移动技术TWO-DART
SER I ES——PIVOTAL-TRANSFER
TECHNlOUE 89
样板评估练习SELF-EVALUAT I ON TEST

5 省道的设计(开花省、褶裥、扩展褶、抽褶)Designing with Darts(Tuck-Darts、Pleats，Flares．and Gathers)
概述lNTRODUCTl0N
一组等量省的变化DART CLUSTERS AND DART EQU I VALENTS
一组渐变省和辐射省GRADUATED AND RADIATING DARTS
平行省PARALLEL DARTS
不对称省ASYMMETR I C DARTS
相交省INTERSECTING DART
相交省的设计变化I NTERSECT I NG DART DESIGN VARIATlONS

6 造型分割线Stylel ines
概述lNTRODUCTl0N
传统公主线CLASSIC PRINCESS STYLELINE
袖窿公主线ARMHOLE PR I NCESS STYLELINE
拼缝线PANEL STYLELlNE

7 加放松量(原理#2)Added Fullness(Principle．#2)
加放松量：原理#2 ADDED FULLNESS：PRINCIPLE #2
宽松衫的基本样板BLOUSON FOUNDATl0N

8 育克、冒肩、细缝裥和缝褶 Yokes，Flanges，Pin Tucks，and Pleat Tucks
上衣中的育克YOKES FOR BODICE
冒肩FLANGES
缝裥与细缝裥PLEAT TUCKS AND P I N TUCKS

9 轮廓线(原理#3)Contouring (Principie#3)
轮廓线：原理#3 CONTOURING：PRINCIPLE ＃3
轮廓基准线样板THE CONTOUR GU I DE PATTERNS
传统帝国线THE CLASSIC EMPIRE
斜叠襟SURPLIcE(OR WRAP)DESIGNS
露肩式OFF-SHOULDER DES I GNS
露背式吊带胸衣HALTERS

10 领子Collas
概述INTRODUCTl0N
领子的术语COLLAR TERMS
领座和翻折类型COLLAR STAND AND ROLL TYPES
领子的分类COLLAR CLASSIFlCATIONS
原型衬衫领的基本样板BASIC SHIRT COLLAR FOUNDATl0N
铜盆领PETER PAN COLLARS
海军领SAILOR COLLAR
深开领口的领子COLLARS WITH DEEP OPEN NECKLINES
立领MANDARlN COLLAR 189
有领座的领子COLLAR WITH STAND
有领座的宽领子WIDE COLLAR AND STAND
远离颈部的领子和领座COLLAR AND STAND AWAY FROM THE BASIC NECKLINE
领子与领座为一片的衣领AL
IN-ONE COLLAR AND STAND
翻折领ROLL COLLARS
领子变化的设计COLLAR DES IOGN VARIATIONS

11 高领口Built-Up Necklines
高领口BUlLT-UP NECKLINES
嵌片型带状领I NSET BANDS

12 垂荡褶领Cowls
垂荡褶领COWLS
背部垂荡褶领BACK COWLS
一片式垂荡褶袖窿ONE-PlECE ARMHOLE COWLS
褶裥式垂荡褶领PLEATED COWLS
夸张的垂荡褶领EXAGGERATED COWLS
嵌片式垂荡褶领I NSET COWLS

13 圆裙与瀑布状花边裙Skirts／CircIes and Cascades
概述INTRODUCTION
裙子的长度sK I RT LENGTHS
四种裙子的基本样板 FOUR SKIRTFOUNDAT IONS
灵活多变的裙褶FLEXIBI LlTY 0F SKIRT DARTS
低腰裙LOW-WAlST SKIRTS
高腰裙GH-WAlST SKIRTS
准备拉链和腰头PREPARING ZIPPER AND WAISTBAND
基本腰头样板BASIC WAISTBAND
扩展褶裙(喇叭裙)FLARED SKIRTS
腰部抽褶裙SKIRTS WITH GATHERED WAISTLINES
多片裙GORED SKlRTS
楔形褶裥裙PEGGED SKIRT WITH PLEATS
裹叠式瀑布褶裙DRAPED WRAP SKIRT WITH A CASCADE
育克裙SKIRTS WlTH YOKES
多层裙TIERS
褶裥PLEATS
三角插片GODETS
裹叠式裙WRAP SKIRT
圆裙、腰褶裙与瀑布褶花边裙CIRCLES，PEPLUMS，AND CASCADES
裙摆不齐的裙SKIRTS WITH UNEVEN HEMLINES
裙子的设计变化SKIRT DESlGN VARfATIONS

14 袖子Sleeves
概述lNTRODUCTION
袖克夫SLEEVE CUFFS
帽状袖CAP SLEEVES
无省道袖样板DARTLESS SLEEVE PATTERN
适合低袖山的袖窿MODIFYlNG ARMHOLE TO REDUCE SLEEVE CAP EASE
泡泡袖PUFF SLEEVES
圆弧形口袖ClRCULAR HEMLINE SLEEVES
花瓣袖PETAL SLEEVES
灯笼袖LANTERN SLEEVES
入肩帽袖SLEEVES WITH EXTENDED CAPS
羊腿袖LEG一0F-MUTTON SLEEVES
垂荡褶袖COWL SLEEVES
婚礼服袖WEDDING SLEEVES
款式多变的袖子SLEEVE VARlATlONS WITH PATTERNS
降低袖窿的袖子SLEEVES WITH LOWERED ARMHOLE
主教袖原型BASlc BlSHOP SLEEVES
夸张的主教袖EXAGGERATED B I SHOP SI EEVE

15 连肩袖、插肩袖、落肩袖、大袖窿袖Kimono，Raglan，Drop Shoulder,and Exaggerated Armholes
概述——与上衣相连的袖子INTRODUCTION TO SLEEVE-BODlCE COMBINATIONS
连肩袖原型BASlC KIMON
蝙蝠袖原型BASlC DOLMAN
一片式连肩袖ONE-PIECE COMBINATIONS
连肩袖上衣的基本样板KIMONO TORSO FOUNDAT 1ON
连袖装KIMONO DRESS
土耳其长袍——设计3 CAFTAN-DESIGN 3
腋下有插角布的连肩袖服装KIMONO WITH GUSSETS
插肩袖RAGLAN SLEEVE
插肩袖设计与样板变化RAGLAN DESIGN AND VARIATlONS
落肩袖DROP SHOULDER
夸张袖窿的袖子EXAGGERATED ARMHOL ES

16 纽扣、纽孔与贴边Buttons，Buttonholes，and Facings
纽扣与纽孔BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES
贴边FACINGS

17 衩口与口袋Plackets and Pockets
衩口PLACKETS
口袋POCKETS

索引Index
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